I also used beautiful chrome J-Brake forward controls, which I found were the only ones that would fit this 
particular application. I also used J-Brake grips and rear passenger foot pegs so that everything matched.

J-Brake makes some of the finest brake systems and other products on the market. I especially like their 
clutch master cylinder. It can be ordered in a 9/16” bore, which makes it much easier to pull so you can use 
a beefier clutch. Smaller bore gives more pressure and less volume meaning easier pull, which works 
especially well in that stop-and-go traffic we get stuck in now and then. And of course, there are those 
smaller hands that don’t have that gripping power of us guys.

58
Slide a chain onto the sprocket and mark on the 
tire with a Sharpie™ above and below it. 

59
Rotate the tire and set the FatKatz F400, 11-inch, 13-gauge steel 
rear fender on top of the tubing. Using the marks on the tire from 
where the chain was, figure out about how much you will need to 
cut out to allow for chain clearance. Mark it. Cut small. You can 
always cut more if needed. 

60
Slide the fender down into the frame approximately where you want it to end up and 
space accordingly. In this case, the socket was the right height needed to have the 
bottom of the fender end up at bottom of the frame. 

Now it’s time to set the motor in place. Reinstall the transmission and mount  the oil tank.  Install the inner 
primary. In this case, I used the new EVO-900SF, 3-inch, open belt drive from BDL with the oil filter mount 
in the plate and an outboard bearing support. A super nice unit, which includes all the parts needed for 
assembly.

With the motor bolted loosely in place you can install the Spyke charging system. One of the reasons for 
leaving the transmission and motor loose is so you can bolt the primary plate to the motor and the 
transmission and move it around to align it in the frame when the time comes.

Since this is a hi-performance application with the S&S 124 motor, I decided to install one of my rotor 
savers. This part replaces the stock Harley crankshaft spacer with more surface area. I have spun the 
centers out of Harley rotors in the past and this will prevent that.